Evolution of an Icon: The Lady Dior

Evolution of an Icon: The Lady Dior

A Royal Favorite

Some bags arrive quietly. The Lady Dior did the opposite. Before the world knew it as the Lady Dior, it was called Chouchou, a French word that translates to “favorite.” It was a new silhouette within the horse, structured yet soft, and it would soon become one of the most photographed accessories of the era. Once it reached the hands of Diana, Princess of Wales, its narrative shifted entirely.

Lady Di(or)

In 1995, during the opening of a Cézanne exhibition in the Grand Palais, the First Lady of France presented Diana with the Chouchou. The design had not yet been released to the public. Soon after, Diana carried the bag on official trips, including her arrival in Buenos Aires, and the images circulated widely. When she requested a navy version to match her eyes, Dior renamed it Lady Dior after her.

Stitched Diamonds and Lucky Charms

The Lady Dior’s visual language pulls from Dior’s history. Its Cannage motif, a quilted diamond pattern, is drawn from the cane chairs Christian Dior had in his studio. The pattern would leave imprints in his clients’ clothes while they sat waiting, which inspired him to incorporate it into his textiles. The metal letters that hang from the handles spell DIOR, a reference to Christian Dior’s habit of carrying lucky charms.

Haute Tip: Learn how to authenticate your Lady Dior here.

Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Medium Lady Dior Navy

Sizes and Styles

A small, box-shaped leather bag, the Lady Dior family has grown into a range of shapes and materials, reinvented season after season. The core silhouette appears in Micro, Mini, Small, Medium, and Large sizes, each keeping the same structured top-handle shape. Across these formats, Dior produces the bag in materials such as lambskin, patent leather, and exotic skins, along with seasonal colors and hardware variations. 

Haute Tip: Read our Lady Dior Size Guide here.

Christian Dior Patent Cannage Mini Lady Dior Red
Christian Dior Niloticus Crocodile Himalaya Medium Lady Dior White
Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Medium Lady Dior Purple

Alongside the classic, Dior introduced related styles. The My ABCDior Lady Dior, launched in 2019, keeps the classic shape but adds customizable letter charms to the strap, offering a personal take on the original. 

Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Small My ABCDior Lady Dior Grey
Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Small My ABCDior Lady Dior White
Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Small My ABCDior Lady Dior Light Pink

The following year, Dior debuted the Lady D-Lite. This bag reinterprets the bag in embroidered canvas with the “Christian Dior” signature on the front, echoing the graphic look of the Dior Book Tote

Christian Dior Canvas Le Coeur En Fleurs Embroidered Medium Lady D-Lite White Multicolor
Christian Dior Canvas Medium Mizza Embroidered Lady D-Lite Beige Multicolor
Christian Dior Canvas Houndstooth Embroidered Mini Lady D-Lite Black White

The Lady D-Joy, introduced in 2022 by then-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, reinterprets the Lady Dior in a horizontal, elongated format. 

Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Medium Lady D-Joy Pastel Peyote Green
Christian Dior Metallic Lambskin Cannage Medium Lady D-Joy Pink
Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage Small Lady D-Joy Fuchsia

That same year, Dior released The Lady 95.22, a reworking by Chiuri with Macrocannage quilting and softened edges. Its name refers to 1995, the year the Lady Dior was born, and 2022, the year this version was created.

Christian Dior Calfskin Cannage Small The Lady 95.22 Beige
Christian Dior Lambskin Cannage The Lady 95.22 White
CHRISTIAN DIOR Calfskin Cannage Mini The Lady 95.22 Dark Green

Dior Lady Art Project

Beyond the main line, Dior works with artists to transform the Lady Dior through the Dior Lady Art Project. Sculptors, textile artists, painters, and mixed-media creators have taken on the silhouette, reimagining it through embroidery, beading, reworked Cannage, sculptural surfaces, and unexpected materials. Released annually in minimal quantities, these pieces are highly collectible and (you guessed it) available at FASHIONPHILE.

Christian Dior X DOROTHY IANNONE Crinkled Calfskin Crystal Beaded Mini Lady Dior Art Black Multicolor
Christian Dior Ultra Matte Calfskin PVC Medium Kohei Nawa Lady Art Red
Christian Dior Patent Studded Medium Li Shurui Lady Dior Art Black Multicolor

Jonathan Anderson Era

As Dior’s new creative director, Jonathan Anderson used his debut women’s collection to introduce his own take on the Lady Dior. Before the show, the bag appeared in campaign images with Mia Goth, Greta Lee, and Mikey Madison, setting the tone for the direction he planned to take. On the runway, he presented updated versions of the Lady Dior with oversized bows and floral details.

He also collaborated with textile artist Sheila Hicks on a special edition wrapped in Hick’s signature “ponytail” fibers. These designs, shown for Dior’s upcoming Spring/Summer 2026 collection, have not been released. But once they are, you know where to get yours—FASHIONPHILE, of course. 

Carry a Legacy

Feeling like a Lady? Find a Lady Dior fit for a queen at FASHIONPHILE. Shop all Lady Dior styles here and now